The first video in our series is just plain Tricks of the Trades – What’s in Our Bag?

Volume II – Planting a Simple and Elegant Garden

Volume III – Bulb Planting Techniques

Volume IV – Planting a Tree Correctly

Volume V – Fixing a Pesky Hole in Your Lawn

The Topsy Turvy Tomato Planter
This planter hangs and the veggies grow out of the bottom. Try some of the following veggies in a Topsy Turvy:
Tomatoes

• Legend
• Rutgers
• Green Zebra
• Sugar Sweetie
• Patio

Peppers

• Peperoncino
• Jalapeno
• Cayene Long Slim

Eggplant

• Snowy White
• Rosa Bianca
• Littlle Fingers
• Long Japanese

Beans

• Bush Beans
• Lima
• Soybean ‘edamame’
• Tiger’s Eye

Other

• Tomatillo
• Mini Gourds
• Bush Cucumber
• Lemon Cucumber

Window Boxes/Hay Racks
These are easy to install and can be placed on window sills and porch rails. The following herbs and veggies are well suited to grow in a window box or hay rack:
Herbs

• Greek Basil
• Chives
• Marjoram
• Oregano
• Parsley
• Rosemary
• Sage
• Thyme

Greens

• Butter Crunch
• Little Gem
• Mesclun – Baby
• Rocky Top Mix
• Speckles
• Arugula

Tomatoes

• Micro-Tom
• Sugar Sweetie
• Green Zebra

Peppers/Eggplant

• Peperoncino
• Jalapeno
• Cayene Long Slim
• Habanero
• Eggplant Little Finger

Other

• Radishes
• Brocolli – Early Green
• Nikko Chinese Cabbage
• Cassius Cauliflower
• Soybean ‘edamame’
• Bush Beans

Earthboxes
The Earthbox is a wonderful planter specially designed for growing vegetables and herbs. The following work well in an Earthbox. (For more information on Earthboxes, click here. For planting instructions, click here.)
Herbs

• Greek Basil
• Chives
• Marjoram
• Oregano
• Parsley
• Sage
• Thyme
• Cilantro
• Dill
• Large Leaf Basils
• Fennel

Greens

• Butter Crunch
• Little Gem
• Mesclun – Baby
• Rocky Top Mix
• Speckles
• Chard
• Spinach
• Collards
• Kale
• Leaf Lettuce
• Cabbage

Tomatoes

• Micro-Tom
• Sugar Sweetie
• Green Zebra
• Legend
• Rutgers
• Celebrity
• Roma
• Bush Champion
• Principe Borghese
• Yellow Pear
• Sungold
• Juliet
• Grape
• Amish Paste
• Garden Peach

Peppers/Eggplant

• Peperoncino
• Jalapeno
• Cayene Long Slim
• Habanero
• Eggplant Little Fingers
• Eggplant Snowy White
• Eggplant Rosa Bianca
• Pepper Marconi
• Bell Pepper
• Black Beauty Eggplant

Peas/Beans

• Sugar Snap
• Pioneer Shell
• Oregon Giant Snow
• Pole Bean
• Fava
• Yellow Pole Bean
• Scarlet Runner

Squash

• Zucchetta
• Zeppelin Delicata
• Buttercup
• Gourds
• Small Sugar Pumpkin
• Blue Ballet Squash

Other

• Radishes
• Brocolli – Early Green
• Nikko Chinese Cabbage
• Cassius Cauliflower
• Bush Beans/Peas
• Beets
• Turnips
• Carrot Oxheart
• Scottish Leeks
• Onions Torpedo Red
• Bush Squash
• Celery Red Venture
• Artichoke
• Melon Tiger
• Watermelon Sugar Baby
• Cucumber
• Sweet Potatoes

Pots 20′ plus will be needed for full size and Beefsteak Tomato Plants

1.  Find the trunk flare—where the trunk and roots meet. Peel back or loosen the top of the burlap and rope. Push the soil away from the trunk until you find the trunk flare. If the tree or shrub is in a large pot, follow the same procedure to find the trunk flare. You may need to remove the plant from the pot to do this.

2.  Dig a slope-sided hole at least 3 times as wide as the diameter of the root ball/pot. Whether the tree or shrub is in burlap or a pot, measure from the trunk flare to the bottom of the root ball. That measurement is how deep the planting hole should be.

3.  After removing the plant from a pot, use a clean knife to score vertical cuts down the root ball 4 or 5 times about 1″ deep (this prevents the roots from growing in a circular girdling fashion).

4.  If the plant is in burlap, place it in the hole and remove all of the rope and as much of the burlap as possible.

5.  Place the plant in the center of the hole on top of the undisturbed soil. Use some of the soil from the hole to steady the plant in an upright position.

6.  Mix the remaining soil with Soil Perfector and Cotton bur Compost or peat moss (according to package instructions) and use this to backfill the hole. Press or lightly tamp the soil making sure the top of the root ball is even with or slightly above the soil line.

7.  Water the root ball and surrounding soil thoroughly to settle soil and remove air pockets.

8.  Mulch around plant 2 inches deep with hardwood mulch. Do not mound up or place mulch against the trunk.

Caring for New Trees and Shrubs

Watering
Making sure your plants have enough moisture is one of the most critical responsibilities for your young plant’s success. Morning is the best time to water to help avoid fungus problems. The soil should be moist but not saturated. Signs of insufficient watering can are drooping, wilting or dry and burnt leaves. Signs of too much watering can be yellowing of leaves or puddling of water. Summer months are the most critical time to keep your plants well watered. Recommended methods for watering include soaker hoses, Treegators, sprinklers and watering wands. Typically we have enough rainfall in fall, winter and early spring such that watering is not necessary, but additional watering may be needed during dry spells. One inch per week is a recommended amount.

Fertilizing
Many natural fertilizers can be used in the season after-planting-such as Pro-start Organic, Tree-tone, Holly-tone, or Plant-tone. However it is best to wait one full growing season for high nitrogen fertilizers. Best time to fertilize is in the early spring for good foliage growth and flowering. Follow instructions for proper amounts.

Pruning
Tree and Shrub pruning is best done in late winter. However, winter damage and dead wood should be removed in early spring. Wait until spring flowering trees and shrubs have finished blooming before pruning. You can prune new growth as it grows during the spring and early summer months.Click here for a printable version.

1605 South Big Bend Blvd
Richmond Heights, Missouri 63117
314-645-SEED • fax-314-645-0121

Gardening is an activity that brings pleasure to many adults. Drive through any St. Louis neighborhood and you will see people energetically planting, trimming, raking and mulching their gardens. Often as we try to whip our gardens into shape we underestimate the time and effort it will take and overestimate our physical abilities. Later that evening or the next day we feel pain and stiffness in our neck, back, shoulders, elbows, wrists and knees. Is it possible to enjoy the fruits, flowers and vegetables of your labor and minimize the discomfort or pain that you feel afterwards? The answer is yes especially if you use the tips listed below.

1. Treat gardening as a sport.
Although this may sound peculiar – if you begin gardening by “warming up” stretching the most frequently used muscles in your upper and lower body – as you would before a sports activity- you allow the muscles to become more flexible and able to handle the tasks you want to accomplish.

2. Carefully plan how much time and realistically how much you can accomplish.
Most injuries occur from doing too much too quickly. A garden takes time to create with your efforts being appreciated just as much as the end result.

3. Keep in mind good body mechanics.
Carefully lift heavy bags of dirt and mulch by keeping your back straight, bending at the knees and lifting with your legs while keeping the bag as close to your body as possible. When digging with a shovel lift the dirt and turn your entire body to empty it. Avoid lifting, twisting and throwing the dirt especially if the ground is wet or the soil is clay.

4. Rotate activities to use different muscle groups.
Frequently changing your activities helps to minimize the repetitive stress placed on the joints of your spine and extremities and the adjacent muscles.

5. Use a cushion, stool or small bench when weeding. This helps to reduce the stress placed on your knees and spine.

6. Take frequent breaks.
You can greatly minimize the chances of injury when gardening by taking frequent breaks every 30 minutes or so. Take a few minutes to stretch, get a drink of water and enjoy your efforts.

7. Stop gardening if you feel pain or become fatigued.
Most gardening injuries occur when you are tired and are trying to do that “one last thing”. If you stop gardening when you feel pain or fatigue you will minimize greatly you chances for further injury. If the pain persists apply ice to the affected area for 15-20 minute periods of time to help reduce the inflammation. DO NOT USE HEAT – it will increase the inflammatory process. If your pain persists contact me at (314) 645-8805 for additional information.

For people who have chronic pain gardening tools have been adapted to meet their needs. Tools with longer handles and larger hand grips help those who have discomfort when bending or difficulty with their grasp. People with chronic low back and knee pain can turn to platform gardening using an elevated planting bed to help avoid bending and kneeling.

1605 South Big Bend Blvd
Richmond Heights, Missouri 63117
314-645-SEED • fax-314-645-0121

1605 South Big Bend Blvd. • Richmond Heights, MO • 63117 • 314-645-7333 • fax-314-645-0121

Red Lion Amaryllis

These magnificent Amaryllis make spectacular and foolproof potted plants, blooming indoors to brighten the holidays and winter months.

When you buy an unpotted bulb, select a container that is no more than two inches wider than the bulb. The Amaryllis prefers tight quarters. If the pot is too large, leaves will develop at the expense of flowers. It’s a good idea to weight the bottom of the pot since Amaryllis grow quite tall and can get top heavy. Make sure about a half of the bulb extends above the soil line. Water sparingly at first to avoid root rot. Place the pot in a cool bright location.

It generally takes from six to ten weeks for a bulb to flower, with a second stalk appearing just after that. Once growth begins, move the bulb into a location that receives several hours of direct sun each day. Ideally the temperature should not exceed 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and hover around 55 degrees at night.

During and after flowering, water only when the soil is dry to the touch. Feed lightly with very diluted fertilizer once a month. Continue to feed all through the spring until mid summer. Blooms should last about two weeks, and will last longer if the plant is taken out of direct sunlight once it begins to flower.

After flowering, do not discard. Your amaryllis bulb may rebloom year after year with a little care. Cut the flower stalks to within two inches of the bulb and leave the foliage intact. Do not over water. Once the nighttime temperature is above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, either sink the pot in the garden in a partially shaded location or leave it in a shaded area of the patio where it receives only morning sun. Repot the bulb every three to four years just before the active growth resumes. Trim the roots at this time, leaving about five inches of root. During other years, merely top dress with an inch or two of new soil.

In mid-September, bring the pot inside. Taper off watering to about a half of the normal amount. Place the pot in a dark, dry place with a temperature of about 55 degrees Fahrenheit. When the foliage turns yellow, trim it back to about 3/4 inch from the bulb and get ready to repeat the sequence. If you wish to delay the new cycle, keep the bulb at around 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

1605 South Big Bend Blvd
Richmond Heights, Missouri 63117
314-645-SEED • fax-314-645-0121

These cacti are so popular because of their spectacular blooming habit and the fact that they are relatively easy to care for.

They do best in rich, well drained soil in bright indirect light. They prefer a daytime temperature of 70 degrees and night temperatures between 60 and 65 Fahrenheit. They enjoy being fed a good organic houseplant fertilizer such as Gro-tone or Fish Emulsion, from April thru October.

The Christmas cactus is not drought tolerant so be sure to water them thoroughly. Let them dry out between watering. If the soil is too dry the leaves will start to wrinkle. Do not over water as they tend to get to root rot. Like most plants, water them less in the winter.  To encourage more branching, pinch off pieces at the joints in March through April.

When the flower buds begin to pop out, place the cactus in bright light and warmer temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees Farenheit.  The plant will no longer require the long dark nights and cooler temperatures. Once the flower buds are formed, try to not to move the plant (or move it carefully) as the buds may tend to drop off.

When the plant is finished blooming let the plant rest for six weeks by holding back on watering. In early spring, when new growth starts to show, you can resume feeding and watering.

It is not hard to get these cacti to rebloom year after year. The three most important factors to encourage bud formation are:

1. Shorter periods of daylight for four to six weeks.
2. Cooler temperatures (but not freezing). Buds will not form if temperatures are above 70 degrees. It is perfectly fine to take them outside until the night temperatures dip down to freezing. Bring them in and put them in a cool dark spot.
3. Keep them on the dry side until you see buds form. You can them bring them to a brighter spot and  resume normal watering.

With a little care and attention you will have a lovely reblooming plant!

The terrarium can safely house a number of plants that do not do well in dry, overheated conditions with a minimum of care. Small ferns, artillery plant, fittonia and neathe belle palms often need more care than most of us have time to give them, but in their glass world they can live and flourish happily.

Almost any glass container can be adapted for a terrarium. With a little patience and ingenuity you can have a miniature world in a bottle, or an old fish bowl. Remember those oversized brandy snifters – its a great place to grow ferns or prayer plants. The environment can be either closed or open to the air. And the type of plant need not be limited to moisture loving tropicals. The open terrarium is perfect for cactus and succulent gardens.

Hints for Terrariums

1. Do not use a container with tinted or cloudy glass. The plants are dependent on light coming through the glass and their growth will be considerably stunted if the light is lowered.
2. Remember if you create a terrarium without a cover, you will have to water more frequently.
3. Once the plants are established, do not over fertilize. You do not want the plants to overgrow their environment.
4. Do not place your terrarium in direct sunlight – the sun shining through the glass can really heat up the
5. interior and those delicate little plants will overheat and die.
6. If you find that there is too much moisture inside your terrarium – leave the lid off for a few days. The right balance of moisture is the most difficult part of establishing a successful environment. Too dry – the plants wilt and die; too moist – fungus and disease will have a chance to grow.

Plants Suitable for Terrariums

1. Tropical Terrariums (Daytime temperature 72-75F, Nighttime temperature 65F)

Aluminum Plant, Artillery Fern, Maidenhair Fern, Prayer Plants, Fittonia or Nerve Plant, Peperomias, especially Emerald Ripple, Neathe Belle Palm, small Umbrella Plants, Aralias, Heart Leafed Philodendron, Wandering Jew, Spider Plants, Some Bromeliads.

Flowering Plants: African Violets, Gloxinias, Miniature Begonias

2. Woodland Terrariums (Daytime temperature 65F, Nighttime temperature 55F)

English ivies, Button Ferns and other table ferns, Oxalis, Creeping Fig, Strawberry Begonias, Piggyback plant, Earth Stars, Pink Polka Dot Plant.

Flowering Plants: Sultana Impatiens

3. Open Containers

Stonecrop, Hens and Chicks, Panda Plant, Jade Plant, Most Cactus, Rosary Vine or Hearts Entangled, Small Opuntias or Prickly Pears.

Flowering Plants: Kalanchoe

Ongoing Care for Your Terrarium

1. Regularly trim and clip faster growing vines such as wandering jew and heart shaped philodendron.
2. Check the plants for signs of disease.
3. If the plants are vigorously growing, fertilize with a weak solution of water soluble fertilizer.
4. Maintain the proper moisture level.
5. Replace any dead leaves or plants or flowering plants past their best.
6. Clean the outside of the glass.

1605 South Big Bend Blvd
Richmond Heights, Missouri 63117
314-645-SEED • fax-314-645-0121

NASA and the Associated Landscape Contractors of America (ALCA) announced the findings of a 2-year study that suggests that common indoor plant may provide a natural way of combating “sick building syndrome”. An acute incidence of indoor air pollution that can occur in closed or poorly ventilated offices and residences.

Research into the use of biological processes, as a means of solving environmental problems both on Earth and in space habitats, has been carried out for many years by Dr. Bill Wolverton, a senior research scientist at NASA’s John C. Stennis Space Center, Bay St. Louis, Mississippi.

Based on preliminary evaluations… the use of common indoor plants for indoor air purification and revitalization, ALCA joined NASA to fund a study of about a dozen popular varieties of ornamental plants to determine their effectiveness in removing several key pollutants associated with indoor air pollution.

Each plant type was placed in sealed, plexiglass chambers in which chemicals were injected. Philodendron, Spider plant and the Golden pothos were labeled as the most effective in removing formaldehyde. Flowering plants such as the Gerbera daisy and Chrysanthemums were rated superior in removing benzene from the chamber atmosphere.

Other plants demonstrated to be effective air purifiers include the Bamboo palm, Peace lily, Ficus, Dracaena massangeana cane, Mother-in-Law’s tongue (Sanseveria), English Ivy and Chinese evergreen species.

“Plants take substances out of the air through the tiny openings in their leaves”, Wolverton said. “But research in our laboratories has determined that plant leaves, roots and soil bacteria are all important in removing trace levels of toxic vapors”

Studies done at the NASA prove that many common houseplants actually reduce gases and pollutants in the air. The pollution derives from carpet, furniture, building materials, smoke, and cleaning supplies. NASA found that two to three plants placed in an average sized room remove up to 87 percent of air pollutants, thus improving air quality. And for those of you in newer homes, where air exchange may be minimal, this is great news.

View our video and see what plants are good for cleaning the air and what lighting situations they like!

1605 South Big Bend Blvd
Richmond Heights, Missouri 63117
314-645-SEED • fax-314-645-0121